Koln: Padlocks and Goulash

A bit of a "moochy" day really, we have spent the day looking around shops, Jan bought some stuff and we continue our quest to check out every cake shop in Koln! We walked over one of the Rhine bridges, and explored some of the east bank.

 

We returned over the "Hohenzollern" bridge, where it has become the custom for people to leave padlocks on the safety fence - with messages engraved on them. This is a remarkable sight actually, it's become a tourist attraction and is so good because it's been generated by public enthusiasm with no corporate input, it's also nice and quirky!

Jan thinks she's found the best chips in the world, from a little back street fast food eateries, it's the paprika apparently. Chill in' in the hotel now, and planning to sample some "goulash" later - Sally is planning to have a litre "stein" of the local beer!

 

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Bonn: beer and bratwurst

So, after a BIG meal last night accompanied by a stein of beer, I decided I needed to have run this morning or else the guilt would be too much, 8 sluggish km's later we tucked into a healthy breakfast.

 

Because it is now the off season for river boat trips in Koln we thought a visit to Bonn might be a good idea - a "Bon" idea?, we planned to get a boat from there instead, to explore the Rhine and hopefully see some-hill side castles. Bonn is only 30 minutes on the train and so off we sped.

(Is this place bon? No it's schoen!)

Guess what? It's off season for river boat trips on Bonn as we'll! We didn't mind however, because Bonn is a really nice place, prettier than Koln, and we enjoyed exploring it's squares and cobbled streets. A trip to the (extremely) helpful Tourist info gave us a plan, and Jan would get to see a pretty Rhine-side "schloss", (castle/chateau).

 

(Some rowdy locals pushing in on the tram...)

The plan involved quite a long tram journey, which is good because as a transport geek teams are good... However we made the mistake of catching the north bound service rather than the necessary south bound service, we were 20 minutes into the suburbs before I realised and we trekked back and corrected ourselves.

(The cog rail way up to Schloss Dracenburg)

We were headed for a small village called Konigs-Winter, from where we took a narrow gauge "cog-railway" up the hillside, to eventually arrive at an amazing "chocolate box" type castle, called Schloss Dracenburg. The whole journey had been worth it, because the place was great, reminiscent of the castle in "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang".

 

 

Back to Bonn for Bratwurst and beer, and then the train back to Koln, a good day, lots to see and loads of train/trams!

 

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A short trip to Cologne

A slightly edgy start to our trip was caused by the threat of a "super storm" drawing in from the Atlantic... All through the day the wind has been picking up and it was a case of whether we would take off before it got really bad, with the resultant risk of delays cancellations etc, etc. We met Sally  at Heathrow, she had travelled from her place in London, and waited for the flight...

Being indoors means that you're not aware of the elements outside and when our boarding time came and went with no announcements or apparent progress we feared the worst. "Massive chaos at Heathrow as countless flights cancelled in Hell Storm drama!" was my imagined explanation. But no worries, with typical Germanic efficiency our flight, (delayed for 25 minutes), was loaded in extra quick time, and our pilot, (Baron Von Richthofen?), promises that we'll make up the time in the air, the flight time being "50 minutes" - (Jan: "50 minutes!")

Almost a problem at the station, the platform was about 400 metres long and unbeknownst to us our train was stopping way up the other end... This friendly chap warned us with just moments to go that we needed to move or we'd miss the train! Nice "random act of kindness"!

For our first day we did our usual routine, after savouring a leisurely breakfast naturally, went to the Tourist Information centre and gathered a load of leaflets, maps, coupons etc. Sally had this notion of visiting a "Torture museum" and so we had a strained conversation with the least helpful or friendly assistant in Western Europe. Non the wiser we left to explore...

Cologne, (or "Koln" as I will refer to it from now on), is famous for it's cathedral, (or "Dom" as it is called locally), and as it was near we went inside it, (or "entered" it if you prefer)! It's a very impressive building, during the war 70% of Koln was destroyed by Allied bombing, but in the same way as St Paul's in London, this church was relatively unscathed, amazing to think it took over 600 years to complete!

We explored the old town and found the river, (Rhine), the storm referred to earlier was still in slight evidence because it was very blowy! We found a nice bar/cafe and drank some welcome coffee. It seems that a lot of attractions, like the river boats and museums, are closed on Mondays, so we were thwarted on several occasions when we found places to visit.


German bakeries are often very tempting places, (as good as French patisseries), and we surrendered to some bread and doughnuts. More exploring, we found a Chocolate museum and a mustard museum and a load of shops, before a sharp shower drove us into a pub for more refreshment!

More walking, exploring and a bit of shopping, (Jan bought some "Eau de Cologne" from the 4711 shop), and we returned to the hotel for a chill - oh yes we also spent more time at the Tourist info and the Train station sorting a plan for tomorrow.  

Flight home...

A post script to the trip: Our transfer from Bintan to the Singapore ferry terminal, and then on to Changi Airport all went really smoothly, we were able to book in really early, in fact 6 1/2 hours early. We spent our time wandering about and enjoying the wonderful facilities; free wi fi, a butterfly garden and more muffin outlets than we could cope with.

When we boarded the plane there was however an interesting issue, the "in-flight entertainment system" for my seat was faulty, the screen was missing. A stewardess said I should have been informed of this at checking in, we weren't. The senior cabin guy came and spoke to me, was very apologetic and gave me a "Comment form" I could fill in and forward to BA Customer services. To be honest I wasn't particularly upset by the problem, but I penned the following:

 

Sir,

on page 129 of your in flight magazine "High life", you tempt your customers with the promise of "100's of movies, tv shows, games, audio options and cd's...", certainly sounds good doesn't it? I would have liked to have sampled just one of these entertaining treats, but was dismayed to discover when I took my seat that my screen was broken and "unavailable". The steward said that I should have been informed at check in - I wasn't. I checked in at Changi 6 hours before take off, so I was hardly the last to be allocated a seat.

The on-flight crew were apologetic but they weren't able to suggest any alternative for me but to write this letter. One of the films I should have been able to see was "Broken City ", - but in my case it's "Broken in flight entertainment"... another option was "Mississippi man", but for me it's "Missing-out-on-the-paid-for-entertainment man".

An irony is that we decided to pay extra for "World traveller plus" because we wanted to treat ourselves to something extra, it seems that in my case the "extra" was time on my hands...

If we'd paid even more we could have gone Business class - I bet their in flight entertainment is never broken.

I hope you register my disappointment with this state of affairs, I feel some recompense is appropriate, 12 and a half hours is a long time to kill, there's only so many letters one can write...

I await your reply.

(This is what I didn't have in front of me!)

Towards the end of the flight another senior cabin crew person approached me, apologised for the problem again, and offered to compensate me for my inconvenience by giving me either £50 off my next BA flight, or £50 pounds discount on any of the Duty free!

I consulted with my Legal department (Jan), and decided that because we rarely fly with BA the former suggestion was a no goer, and equally rarely we don't buy much Duty free so the latter offer wasn't much better. It's like a game of poker! I told the lady "thanks but no thanks", we would take up the matter with their customer services!

 

Watch this space...

 

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On to Bintan and Chillsville..

 

We left the hurly burly of Singapore yesterday and have now come to rest in a quiet little resort called Bintan, an Indonesian island a 50 minute ferry ride across the South China Sea, the two places could not be more different! This place is very secluded and peaceful, it seems almost like a "retreat" that monks might go to find themselves.

 

(All aboard the Bintan ferry)

The scenery and views are amazing, sunrise this morning was breathtaking. It might prove to be stressful however because of the choices - whether to swim in the sea or in the pool? to read books or sip coffee? to lay on our fronts or backs? In February when it's cold and raining and the kids have had wet play times all day we need to remember this!

(Worth getting up early for)

Today is my birthday, (have I mentioned it?) and when we returned from the pool this morning we discovered that room service had made a great "Happy Birthday" arrangement with towels and flowers! It wasn't particularly butch or "manly", but then again neither is my present from Jan, it's a "man bag"! Perhaps I need to get more in touch with my feminine side, (ooh err...)

(Seems Room service have nothing better to do...)

(The birthday man bag is from the 2013 "Lady boy" range)

The price of food at this place is really high, and so we are following a cunning plan, get up and take breakfast late, eating slowly and as much as we can manage, (breakfast is included), and then surviving on the complimentary fruit until evening meal time - is anyone picking up a theme of "thrift" in this blog? Perhaps we will have lost weight when we return? (er no chance!)

 

As all we plan to do between now and returning to the UK is lazing around I think this will be the last blog in the current series. Hopefully it will return for a short season in the autumn. Many thanks for viewing!

 

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A great day in Singapore!

 

Well today has been full on, we've been out all day and have returned to the hotel to a nice surprise - the guy on the reception desk must have noticed it's to be my birthday in a few days, (have I mentioned it?), and there was a cake waiting for me!

 

If you didn't already know, I was actually born in Singapore - too many years ago, and then our family left only weeks later. I wanted to go and find the nearest remaining evidence of where I was born. Well the place was the British Military Hospital at Gillman Barracks on Lock Road, so off we went. The barracks are still there, they are now converted into an arts complex, all the different buildings house exhibitions from different artists. I have no way of knowing which building may have been a maternity ward, but we walked about and took some pictures anyway, it was nice to be there.

(Out side one of the former military buildings at Gillman Barracks)

Next we took a bus into town to visit the famous "Raffles Hotel", and what a great place that is! The building is a classic colonial structure, with wood panelling and expensive period fittings. We went into the Long Bar and ordered "Singapore slings", a cocktail invented in the hotel, expensive but refreshing. At the tables are bowls of unshelled pea nuts, and the tradition is to eat the nuts and throw the shells onto the floor - the floor was covered in them, they crunched under foot as we left.

(Raffles Hotel, is a wonderful place to visit.)

(The Long room bar, careful with those pea nuts.)

It was getting hot by now so we headed to a nearby mall, so we could enjoy the air conditioning, and window shop in the exclusive outlets. For lunch we stopped at a food hall, where you could choose from Chinese, Indian,Thai or Malay, I opted for sweet and sour pork, and Jan had a "veggie curry type thingy" - best value meal of the trip!

 

We had seen on the sky line a big wheel, a bit like the London Eye, and as it was near we set off to find it, the view promised to be special and we weren't disappointed... It was jaw dropping! Neither of us were prepared for just how amazing Singapore is, it's like a science fiction city, with stunning buildings, roads, bridges, water ways and parks, and from the "Singapore Flyer", (for that was what the wheel was called), we got an incredible view. Perhaps the most remarkable feature of the waterfront area is the "Marina Bay Sands" hotel, it is a three towered structure, and on top is a platform shaped like a ship, on this platform are swimming pools, trees (yes trees!), and several bars.

(The Singapore Flyer and skyline.)

In front of the hotel is a fantastic park, which includes two huge biospheres, (green houses?), we went in and spent a couple of house exploring, there were waterfalls, various tropical gardens, aerial walks and loads more, sensory overload really.

 

The "sensory overload" just got more intense next, we went into the nearby "Marina Bay Sands" shopping mall. At one end there was a canal between the shops, upon which gondola like boats where cruising back and forth, at the other end of the mall there was an ice rink! The place reminded us of Disney land, but free!

(Yes this is a canal with boats on in a shopping mall!)

So far today we had travelled by taxi, bus and big wheel "pod", so we rounded it off by using the underground metro, to get to Boat Quay, a place we have decided we like the most. The evening meal was an Indian by the river front, with a jug of cold beer, a great end to a great day - the only way to top it would be to have some birthday cake waiting for us at the hotel...

(Beer is cheaper if you buy it by the jug!)

 

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The end of the line

 

So today we chugged into Singapore, the morning was taken with packing and hanging out at the observation carriage, (I say "hanging out" because "leaning out" was expressly forbidden - there was a sign that said so).

 

We crossed the causeway into Singapore and after disembarking were met by a transfer to our hotel. It was a novelty to be able to walk sideways sometimes, rather than feeling we had to squeeze along corridors to get around as on the train.

 

We ventured into China town in the afternoon, I wanted to find an "authentic" Chinese medicine shop to try and get something for a wart on my hand. Imagined a gloomy little opium den where an aged crone would concoct a foul smelling potion involving "eyes of newts and nail clippings from left handed goat herders", but actually the smart young man gave me a packet of what looked suspiciously like corn plasters from Boots... So much for my over active imagination!

 

A beer (hooray!), at Boat Quay and then we went shopping in a market, Jan bought my birthday present, (two days time folks, all will be revealed). We ate at a disappointing venue at Clarke Quay, neither off the vegetarian options were available, nor was the wi-fi, my meal arrived 10 minutes before the chips, which arrived 5 minutes before Jan's pizza, sigh. The evening ended with a slight panic, because we were in down town Singapore and could not find any way of getting back to the hotel, it seemed as if the Taxis had all disappeared! Eventually we got lucky and made it back, to fall wearily into our bed.

 

Ps. The eagle-eyed amongst you (Mike), may have noticed that the blogs on the train journey were published out of order, oops sorry, I hope this did not spoil your reading experience! Secondly, the more eagle-eyed amongst you, (you again Mike), may have noticed the blog has advertising! Yes indeed, I get paid (I presume), by google for the "hits" I get, (all these years with Jan and never before have I been paid for being hit!) Does this make me a professional author? So far this year I've made 8 pence, so perhaps J K Rowling's place on the "Rich list" is safe for now.

 

I have statistics for who clicks on these ads, and those responding to "Thai massages-discretion assured", need never fear, your secrets are safe with me, (once again, Mike!)

 

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Penang... We knew nothing about it either!

Today we entered Malaysia, that's another country we can include in our passports, there is a definite difference between Thailand and here I think - Malaysia seems more developwed and technological, they are upgrading the railway line and the stations are very modern.

(View from our window of northern Malaysia)

 

Our route took us to the region of Penang on the west coast, most of the region is an island and we crossed the 13 km bridge by coach to explore after leaving the train at Butterworth Station. Penang Island has a strong trade history, it was an important East India Company base in the 18th century and there are loads of British colonial references, (for example; the island's capital is Georgetown).

("Make way! Jan coming through!)

 

Penang is a very multicultural place, Chinese, Indian and Malay people, Buddhist, Hindu, Islamic and Christian faiths, really interesting and atmospheric. We went for a short visit to a Chinese temple and then had a "tri-shaw" ride which was great! A tri-shaw is like a rickshaw except the guy pedalling is behind his passengers rather than in front. we ended up at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel for a drink and a comfort break (!) This hotel had wi-fi so I fed my Internet addiction for 20 mins as well...

(The coolest character in this picture is the tri-shaw driver!)

 

Last full day on the train, so time for some thoughts... The whole experience has been great, Jan was worried that she was going to be bored "just sitting on a train for 3 days", but it hasn't been boring at all, it's been very relaxing and we've enjoyed the classy style of the journey. This style does come at a price however; $40 for a bottle of wine, $10 for a beer! We couldn't bring our selves to pay that and were probably the only folks who had no restaurant or bar fees at the end - the chilled water was free!

 

Meal times were always entertaining, we met and dined with some really nice people, from all places and walks of life. There was David the South African from California and his niece, two different Swiss couples - one now living in China, one of them was a scuba diving wrist watch company executive, a young Australian-Japanese hotel waiter who was a train geek who knew all the about the Carlisle to Settle railway although he's never been to Europe, and finally a lovely American couple from Chicago - Steve and Victoria, who have travelled "massively" all their lives, since their retirement they take 6 week long global trips continent hopping! I told the latter folks about this blog and they've promised to take a look!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Bridge on the River Kwai!

This morning we got up early and trekked the length of the train to the observation car because we had been promised a special view - we would be crossing a 300 metre long wooden "trestle" viaduct on the banks of the River Kwai. Unfortunately every one else on the train was there too and it was a bit of a bun fight, but at least it gave it gave us some exercise, which we need because as we were to find today there's no shortage of eating opportunities!

(Wang Pho station early morning)

 

We stopped at Kanchanaburi and disembarked to travel a short distance up the actual River Kwai, a guide from the local war museum gave us a brief history of the wartime Thai-Burma railway and spoke about the terrible conditions that the wartime POW's worked in to build it. Next we visited the Museum and the War cemetery, both were beautifully planned and maintained, a very moving place.

(The Bridge on the River Kwai - with our train on it)

 

A lovely lunch sitting next to a couple of Swiss people who are living in China, both of them spoke amazing English, in fact they spoke about four languages each, the lady is even learning Mandarin.

This journey feels like a linear form of cruising, there is on board entertainment, (Peter on the piano in the bar in the evening, a fortune teller in the Reading room from 1:30, and a demonstration of traditional Thai dancing in the observation carriage at 5:00. At this rate we shall need another holiday at the end of this one to recover!

 

(On the "observation carriage")

 

(The reading room)

 

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Last day in Bangkok

I'm writing this as we are waiting for our transfer to the station before our journey to Singapore, time for a reflection on Thailand. We have really enjoyed our stay, the people seem really friendly and are certainly respectful, they seem genuinely please to welcome visitors. We have been struck by how proud of their country the Thai people are, very fond of the Royal family - it has been the Queen's birthday whilst we have been here.

 

Thailand has had a slightly seedy reputation, especially Bangkok, but from our experience there is definitely nothing to be any more wary of than in any other foreign country. We have always felt safe and really enjoyed the taste of such a different culture.

 

(At one point during our stay I did think we had unearthed the sordid underbelly of this city when a man asked me if I wanted a "tuk tuk", but fortunately I hadn't mis heard him, he was actually asking if we needed a taxi... Tuk tuks are little scooter powered "rickshaw" -like cabs!)

("Tuk tuk madam?")

 

This train is a wonderful experience, the cabins are small but very classy, almost Victorian - wood panelled with lots of brass fittings. The dining saloon is about 6 carriages away, which is a bit of a trek, and the "observation carriage" is about 12 away! I reckon when we specifically want to see something we will have to set off about half an hour beforehand just to get there!

 

("tickets please!")

(Jan about to board)

(The room is small but beautifully formed)

 

The "Dining experience" was very pleasant, the "suit" made it's debut appearance to tumultuous applause, (not really - although the South African guy on our table did say it was "nice"). Fashion faux pas of the trip so far; because I've been wearing shorts and sandals every day I forgot to pack any socks! So I'm sat in a posh restaurant car, in a nice new suit with no socks...

(All togged up in the new suit, off to dinner - with no socks on!)

 

Back in the cabin now and looking forward to what tomorrow may bring.

Ps. The winner of the "reference" quiz on the last blog was Mike, I knew it would be!

 

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The weekend market - a lazy day

No where planned to go today, so we got up at a respectable hour and took our time over breakfast. The breakfast room was packed with Japanese families, and this made the people watching more entertaining than usual.

We decided to take the "Sky train" to the Weekend market, that is to say, to the market that is especially noted for being held at the err... weekend. The Sky train is Bangkok's attempt to improve traffic congestion, it's an urban railway system that runs high above the ground, it's very cheap and clean, and busy, but it does avoid the traffic.

(... the train approaching platform one is a "Sky train...)

 

The market was a fascinating experience, really atmospheric, massive and not just a tourist site, you could buy almost anything. We came across an area that seemed to specialise in pets, and there were dwarf rabbits, (dressed in costumes...), puppies, cats and in the fish water section, terrapins, koi carp and sea horses. I' m not sure about the animal welfare issues but it was certainly interesting.

(Jan was concerned that the dogs and cats were suspiciously close to the deep fat fried fast food stalls!)

(The way into the market).

(There were hundreds of little alleyways like this).

(Street performers come in all shapes and sizes...)

 

Excitement levels have been high at the hotel today and yesterday. Some high ranking military officials from Singapore, Malaysia and Vietnam have been staying, we saw them going out to a function last night, all festooned with medals,, and this morning they were having breakfast in a private room off the lobby. There are security guards with earpieces and badges in dark suits all over the place, at one point I said to Jan I thought the man in the gaberdine suit was a spy... She said to be careful, because she thought his bow tie was really a camera...*

 

Got my suit delivered this evening, very nice, it shall be unleashed upon the unsuspecting public tomorrow night.

It also rained for the first time today, and boy did it rain! Cats, dogs, kitchen sinks, the lot, we were inside watching and it was spectacular.

We are catching the train to Singapore tomorrow, and so will be out of wi-fi range for 3 days, expect a bumper blog when we re-emerge into civilisation!

 

 

*spot the reference and maybe win a mention in a forthcoming post... come on you lurkers!

 

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