Day 4: A divided city...
So today was our last day and we had arranged for a "Black Cab" tour of the Shankill and Falls Road areas of the city. For our generation references in the news and on TV to the "troubles" of Northern Ireland were almost a daily occurrance whilst growing up. Images of riots, fire bombings, street parades and funerals were regularly shown to us during the '70s and '80s, and today gave us an opportunity to learn more about this complex and wretched era of British political history.
Our cab collected us from the hotel promptly at 10:30 and the driver - John, immediately began his friendly, balanced, and very informative commentary.
The two particularly sensitive residential areas of Belfast are the Falls Rd area, and the Shankill Rd area, the former is almost entirely Roman Catholic, republican and pro IRA, and the latter is nearly all Protestant, Loyalist and pro Great Britain. We had no idea that the scale of "hatred" and "antagonism", (John's words - but very apt), between these communities was still so strong. There is a "Peace wall" running between the two areas - concrete and steel, 30 feet tall, the gates of which are locked every Friday night for the weekend, to prevent violence.
|
A gate through the "Peace wall"
|
The Peace wall behind a house in Shankill
|
|
There are huge murals painted on house ends celebrating events and individuals; events such as killings, riots or particular wars; individuals such as murderers, (or freedom fighters), victims, (or targets).
The people who live here are proud of their communities and encourage the way of life. On the evidence we saw both groups seem as far from resolving their differences as ever they were, and the remarkable fact is this all seems to exist in such an apparently contained area. Back in the city centre life appears perfectly "normal" and feels perfectly safe...
|
The ruins of the Crumlin Rd Court house, derelict and wrecked by years of attack and violence
|
The trip was truly fascinating and eye-opening, definitely recommended.
We were flying home i
n the afternoon, so we whiled away the last few remaining hours window shopping, eating and drinking in the Morning Star, (again!), and shivering, (it was bitterly cold). It's been a great trip which we will remember fondly. If you get the chance to come here do so!
No comments:
Post a Comment